Tuesday, July 24, 2012

Magician's Birthday




On a gorgeous summer afternoon friends and family gathered for a garden party by the pool to celebrate the birthday of a magical silk painting artist of international fame, tireless world traveller, and a beautiful woman Natasha Foucault.



Natasha's art transforms everyone: the ladies were more beautiful than ever, wearing Natasha's hand-painted silks, the men had her custom-made ties, and everyone was inspired by her art, her charm, and travel stories.

I had the honor to prepare the festive dinner for my art teacher and friend. Both Natasha and I were born and raised in Russia, and we love Russian cuisine, so we decided to start the dinner with zakuski, the traditional appetizer spread.


Natasha is a connoisseur of wild mushrooms, and an experienced mushroom hunter. She supplied a wealth of the finest wild mushrooms that she had collected in Northern California last season and saved in the freezer for the party.



Porcinis, chanterelles, slippery jacks - these mushrooms may seem rare and exotic to a modern Californian, but they are dear and familiar to any Russian mushroom hunter, and their aromas bring memories of childhood, of dark dense forest, sunny meadows, cool streams under shady trees, the far-away land that we still consider our own. It was such an exquisite pleasure to create both traditional and modern "fusion" dishes with these darling fungi!


For the main course we needed something simple, something that could be prepared and enjoyed while the temperature was still in the 90-ies. I opted for the grill. It is somewhat tough to grill meat, fish, and vegetables for 40 people in 95 degrees, with the sun shining straight on your back while the grill flares up in your face, but the pool made it much easier. As soon as everything was grilled and while the guests were helping themselves at my hot buffet, I got out of my chef's coat and into the pool, and came to the table totally refreshed.



The tables were set on the lawn. While we were enjoying the meal, saying toasts and drinking wines from around the world to the health and happiness of our friend, the sun went down, the temperature dropped a little, and the host turned on the pool lighting to make our night under the stars even more magical. Then there was music, dancing, more wine, and simple and perfect seasonal fruits for the dessert.

Happy birthday, dear magician, happy birthday to you!



The menu:

Appetizers
Russian potato salad (Olivier)
Mushroom piroshki
Cabbage piroshki
Chicken liver mousse
Exotic mushrooms pate, porcini topping
Chanterelle, goat cheese, and caramelized onion tartlets
Assorted cold cuts
Cheeses
Breads, crackers

Main
Grilled marinated beef tri-tip
Grilled Alaskan wild salmon
Assorted grilled vegetable skewers

Dessert
Raw fruit and berry crumble with almonds



- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Redwood City, CA

Thursday, July 12, 2012

Market watch: what's good at the farmers market right now

What's good at the market right now

- Summer squashes. I know, we'll all get tired of them by the end of July, and will try to unload the surplus on the neighbors and friends. But right now they are exciting, new, fresh, tasty, and come in many varieties. Slice them thin for a salad, or grill them, sauté them, stuff them, make pancakes and tarts with them.



- Tomatoes. The larger heirloom varieties are not really ready yet, and the cherries, Early Girls, and beefsteak tomatoes rule the market. Pasta with fresh tomatoes or a tomato sauce, tomato and bread salad, roasted pepper and tomato soup. Or just eat out of hand with a little sea salt. Smaller Early Girls and plum tomatoes can be selected to match the size of Japanese eggplant and zucchini to make a dramatic stacked ratatouille.



- Eggplant: king of the grill. Slice thin lengthwise, grill on lightly oiled grill (don't oil the eggplant slices, they will absorb all the oil in a moment, and the surface will be dry again). Marinate grilled eggplant with balsamic vinegar, garlic, and olive oil; or wrap herbed goat cheese in grilled eggplant slices; or blend with tahini paste, olive oil, and roasted garlic for baba ganoush, a classic Mediterranean spread.

- Corn. White, yellow, bi-color, and all other colors. Grill.

- Stone fruits: peaches, nectarines, apricots, plums, pluots. Eat straight, blend in shakes and gelato, bake, make preserves, create sweet and spicy sauces for chicken and pork, serve as part of a cheese board... Possibilities are endless.



- Figs. Love. Just eat them. Eat them from a tree with your hands; wash them and eat them with a fork; split them and stuff with goat cheese, honey, and black pepper; wrap them in prosciutto; wrap them in bacon and grill; add them to a lamb roast; slice them into a fruit salad. Just eat them, they will be gone too soon.

- Melons and watermelons. They are just beginning to appear, and when sliced and chilled, they compliment the July weather like nothing else. I also love slices of green-fleshed melons with prosciutto.

- California king salmon. We are in the middle of the salmon season, the prices are as "reasonable" as they will get, and the fish that was caught today is usually available - this is what's important when buying fish. This fish has great flavor and texture, and requires very little adornment. A suggest grilling, pan-frying, or poaching it, then serving it with basil oil, homemade aioli, gremolata, chimichurri, or yogurt-dill sauce.



- California white sea bass is a better choice environmentally than Chilean sea bass, and almost as good. Grill.



- Santa Barbara spot prawns. If you can afford them, grill them life, and eat with a squeeze of lemon.


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:San Francisco Bay Area