Market watch: what's good at the farmers market right now

What's good at the market right now

- Summer squashes. I know, we'll all get tired of them by the end of July, and will try to unload the surplus on the neighbors and friends. But right now they are exciting, new, fresh, tasty, and come in many varieties. Slice them thin for a salad, or grill them, sauté them, stuff them, make pancakes and tarts with them.



- Tomatoes. The larger heirloom varieties are not really ready yet, and the cherries, Early Girls, and beefsteak tomatoes rule the market. Pasta with fresh tomatoes or a tomato sauce, tomato and bread salad, roasted pepper and tomato soup. Or just eat out of hand with a little sea salt. Smaller Early Girls and plum tomatoes can be selected to match the size of Japanese eggplant and zucchini to make a dramatic stacked ratatouille.



- Eggplant: king of the grill. Slice thin lengthwise, grill on lightly oiled grill (don't oil the eggplant slices, they will absorb all the oil in a moment, and the surface will be dry again). Marinate grilled eggplant with balsamic vinegar, garlic, and olive oil; or wrap herbed goat cheese in grilled eggplant slices; or blend with tahini paste, olive oil, and roasted garlic for baba ganoush, a classic Mediterranean spread.

- Corn. White, yellow, bi-color, and all other colors. Grill.

- Stone fruits: peaches, nectarines, apricots, plums, pluots. Eat straight, blend in shakes and gelato, bake, make preserves, create sweet and spicy sauces for chicken and pork, serve as part of a cheese board... Possibilities are endless.



- Figs. Love. Just eat them. Eat them from a tree with your hands; wash them and eat them with a fork; split them and stuff with goat cheese, honey, and black pepper; wrap them in prosciutto; wrap them in bacon and grill; add them to a lamb roast; slice them into a fruit salad. Just eat them, they will be gone too soon.

- Melons and watermelons. They are just beginning to appear, and when sliced and chilled, they compliment the July weather like nothing else. I also love slices of green-fleshed melons with prosciutto.

- California king salmon. We are in the middle of the salmon season, the prices are as "reasonable" as they will get, and the fish that was caught today is usually available - this is what's important when buying fish. This fish has great flavor and texture, and requires very little adornment. A suggest grilling, pan-frying, or poaching it, then serving it with basil oil, homemade aioli, gremolata, chimichurri, or yogurt-dill sauce.



- California white sea bass is a better choice environmentally than Chilean sea bass, and almost as good. Grill.



- Santa Barbara spot prawns. If you can afford them, grill them life, and eat with a squeeze of lemon.


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Location:San Francisco Bay Area

It's king salmon season!

It's California king salmon season! Everyone here is excited about our local salmon. The market price reflects this excitement - the whole fish goes at $10.99 a pound, and fillets are $17.99 a pound. Bu the glorious fish is totally worth it, and we can afford it once a year, right?



The fishermen bring the salmon in early in the morning, it hits the Bay Area stores a couple of hours later, and then you have to catch it the second time: it's usually gone by noon.



This morning I caught about 1.5 pounds of the freshest local king salmon fillets at Sigona's Farmers Market in Redwood City. I cut it into 6-ounce portions, and made a healthy version of the classic salmon with dill sauce for 4.

Salmon with Dill Sauce
Serves 4

1 Tbsp olive oil
1 Tbsp butter
4 salmon fillets, skin on
Salt, pepper

6 oz plain Greek yogurt
1 small bunch fresh dill, finely chopped
2 strips of lemon rind, yellow part only, cut with vegetable peeler, very finely chopped
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Salt

Heat olive oil and butter in a large non-stick skillet. Season salmon fillets with salt and pepper. Place fillets flesh side down in the skillet; let them sizzle without disturbing for 2-3 minutes. Using a large spatula, carefully turn the fish over. Cook for 2-3 minutes more, or until just cooked through but still juicy.

Mix yogurt, dill, lemon rind and lemon juice. Season to taste.

Spoon the sauce over the fish, garnish with lemon slices and dill sprigs.




Other ideas for cooking your local fresh salmon:

Poach it. Prepare court bouillon with white wine, lemon, black peppercorns, carrots, celery, parsley, onion, bay leaf, and enough water to cover the fish, in a deep sauté pan. Simmer 20-25 minutes to extract the flavor from the vegetables, season to taste. Remove and discard the vegetables. Place the fish fillets in the court bouillon skin side down. Simmer until just cooked, about 10 minutes, more or less depending on the thickness of the fish. Serve in soup bowls, with strained court bouillon and julienned blanched carrots and celery.



Grill it. Season the fillets with salt and pepper, brush with olive oil. Grill on preheated medium grill until just cooked, 6-8 minutes, turning (carefully, with a large spatula) once.



Here grilled king salmon is served with grilled yellow squash and a sauce of fava beans with tarragon and lemon.

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Location:Redwood City, CA

Spring vegetables

Asparagus


Steamed asparagus and broccoli with lemon dressing



Roasted asparagus with orange and oregano


Asparagus with saffron champagne vinaigrette



Grilled chicken with asparagus


Fava beans






Quinoa pasta with beans and asparagus



Fava bean dip with garlic and Meyer lemon



Beans and peas ragout

Leeks



Braised leeks in white wine



Leek, spinach, and Gruyere quiche

Radish






Sautéed radishes and watercress

Artichokes



Steamed artichokes with lemon vinaigrette


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Location:San Rafael, CA

Late spring menu

Green pea soup with garlic
Smoked salmon and asparagus quiche
Roasted beet salad
Honey mustard chicken and vegetable skewers, prepared for the grill
Brown rice pilaf
Lamb chops with rosemary goat cheese sauce
Broiled polenta squares
Ragu Bolognese
Spaghetti with garlic and herbs









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Location:Redwood City, CA

Do not compost

I didn't say this! By all means, please do compost! It's economical, fun, good for your garden and for the rest of the planet. However, I've noticed that people get carried away, and put on the compost pile things that should go in the pot and on the table. Please, do not compost these, give them a try:



Beet greens. They are sweet, tender, and full of vitamins. Why would you toss beet greens, and then go and buy Swiss chard? It's actually the same plant, except the beets were bred to have larger roots, and the chard was bred for the leaves. Clean the beet greens carefully, then use in braised greens dishes, add to borscht, or sauté in olive oil and toss with pasta.



Radish and turnip tops. These greens add wonderful, slightly spicy flavor and tons of vitamins to any dish where you would use other leafy greens. Or roast radishes or small turnips with the greens attached, for added textural interest.



Outer green cabbage leaves, cauliflower, broccoli, and kohlrabi leaves. These can be tougher than the cabbage heads, so they take longer to cook. On the other hand, they have higher concentration of vitamins and minerals than white cabbage heads. When braising cabbage, start with shredded outer green leaves, give them 15 minutes head start, then add shredded white or red cabbage.


Or, remove the thick center veins from the leaves, blanch them in in boiling water or steam in a microwave for about 2 minutes, refresh under cold water, stuff with your choice of seasoned cooked grains, meats, and vegetables, roll into tight parcels, place in a baking dish with chicken or vegetable broth, tomato sauce, sour cream, or a combination; bake uncovered at 375 degrees until tender and beginning to turn golden. Serve with the pan sauce.



Broccoli stems. Peel them, cut a slice and try it raw - you'll be surprised. It's the best part of the broccoli! If anything is left after you tried them raw, slice them and steam in a steamer or in the microwave, together with the florets, 4-5 minutes. Refresh with cold water, toss with your favorite salad dressing. My current favorite is 1 Tbsp almond butter, 1 tsp tamari soy sauce, 1 Tbsp olive oil, 1/2 tsp white wine vinegar or sherry vinegar, enough water to thin, salt and pepper. Top with dried cranberries, sliced almonds, toasted hazelnuts, sunflower seeds, or whatever you like.

Carrot tops. They taste like a carrot with a hint of parsley. They can be tough, so cut them finely and add to braised greens, soups, or pasta sauces in the beginning. Give them time to soften, and they will give your dish additional tasty goodness.

When making chicken or vegetable stock, carrot and onion trimmings, parsley stems and roots, green parts of leeks, kale stems, cabbage cores, leafy celery tops, small cloves from the center of a garlic head, lemons halves squeezed for juice, mushroom stems, bottom parts of asparagus - all add flavor, color and nutrition to the stock. Make sure that the vegetables are well cleaned. Simmer them in the stock for about 30 minutes to extract the flavor. If you are making a vegetable stock, after straining it, you can still compost the vegetables.



I've listed vegetable parts that I've been using in my cooking and enjoying for a long time. There may be other neglected edible plants or plant parts out there. Please do your research before attempting to cook and eat anything new. Our goal is to get taste and nutrition, not to get sick.
Do not try to cook with the greens from tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, and other members of the nightshades family - they can be poisonous.

Braised mixed greens
This is a "loose" recipe, with lots of possible variations. I have made it with or without meat; with wine, different types of vinegar, and apple cider; using almost every leafy vegetable on the market. Taste as you cook. Note that chickories will add some bitterness, and chards and beets will add sweetness; adjust the seasoning.

Wash your greens well. Don't waste time on drying then: any water clinging to the leaves will help them cook.

Serves 4
2 Tbsp olive oil
2 ounces bacon or pancetta, thinly sliced (optional)
1 large red onion, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 bunch black kale, stems removed, torn into bite-size pieces
1 bunch red kale, stems removed, torn into bite-size pieces
Tops from 1 bunch of turnips, with stems, chopped
Tops from 1 bunch of carrots, thick part of stems removed, chopped
1 cup not too fruity white wine (Italian pino grigio works well)
Salt, pepper

In a large, deep sauté pan heat oil over medium heat. Add bacon or pancetta, if using, brown, stirring often. Add onion, cook, stirring, until soft and beginning to turn color. Add garlic, cook another minute to soften it. Start adding greens in batches. The greens will shrink, giving you room to add more greens. Stir to help the greens to shrink evenly. Add wine. Cover, reduce heat to medium-low to maintain slow simmer. Simmer until the greens are tender, 30-45 minutes. Remove the lid. Taste, season with salt and pepper. If there is a lot of liquid remaining on the bottom, cook uncovered until almost all the liquid evaporates. Serve as a side to pork, sausage, or chicken, or over white beans or pasta.


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Location:San Rafael, CA

Russian food. Assorted meat selyanka

I guess it's the season: I've been cooking a lot of Russian food recently. From Russian Californians with a food nostalgia to families who never tried Russian food and want something different for their special occasion dinner, everyone is requesting traditional Russian dishes. I've even been working with a fine restaurant that decided to offer zakuski spread as a part of their appetizer menu.

There is very little information available on traditional Russian cuisine. A friend (of Russian background!) asked me a few days ago: "What do you mean by Russian cuisine? Isn't it all just French food made with available local ingredients?" The answer is "No". The French cuisine became a huge influence in Russian cooking in the 19th century, when French chefs immigrated to Russia to escape the revolution, and were hired by aristocratic families and fancy restaurants; but there are distinctive tastes and cooking techniques that make Russian cuisine stand on it's own, and reflect the character of the people and the land, even after absorbing multiple influences from the neighbor countries. I am going to put together a series of posts about russian cuisine, with recipes, techniques, and serving ideas, for easy reference. I hope I can paint a complete picture.

Contrary to what most restaurant menus would make you think, Russian cuisine is much more than borscht, beef Stroganoff, blini with caviar, and cold vodka.

The short growing season and long winter in most regions forced the cooks to make creative use of vegetables with long storage potential (cabbages, potatoes, turnips, beets, onions) and grains (wheat, rye, buckwheat, rice, barley, to name a few), to develop an assortment of pickled, marinated, and fermented vegetable recipes and smoked and dried meats for storage. During the short spring and summer growing season, fresh young vegetables and herbs are praised and presented in salads, cold and hot soups, or prepared simply to accompany the main course.

Wild mushroom hunting is a favorite national pastime and a competitive sport, and boiled, sautéed, pickled, marinated, dried mushrooms add their charm to many dishes. In modern times, when wild mushrooms are unavailable, cultivated varieties take their place in recipes, but they are never as good as the real thing!

Fish, both salt- and freshwater, was always popular. Two specifically Russian ways to prepare fish are whole de-boned fish or slices of fillet baked in pastry, and cooked fish, covered with jelly, served cold as an appetizer. There is a number of fish soups and salads, using both fresh and smoked fish. Pickled herring, a Scandinavian influence, is enormously popular, as it goes so well with vodka.

The most used meats are beef and pork, both served hot, or cold as an appetizer. Organ meats, such as tongues, harts, livers and kidneys, are cooked in soups, pates, baked in pastry, or made into sausages. Lamb and mutton are a recent fashion brought from the South. As part of Georgian, Armenian, Azerbaijani, Uzbek dishes they are very popular now.

Poultry and game - chickens, duck, goose, rabbit, pheasant, quail, grouse - are reserved for festive holiday roasts and stews. They are presented nicely, and grace the holiday table. Organ meats are also used. Chicken liver mousse is everyone's favorite.

What really sets Russian cuisine apart from the rest of the world is it's extensive use of yeast dough to make all kinds of bread, filled bread, pastries, pies, rolls, etc, baked, fried, boiled. Vatrushki (cheese pies) for breakfast. Small piroshki with meat and vegetable fillings as a part of the appetizer spread. The soup is usually accompanied with piroshki with a filling that compliments the soup. A meat or a fish pie can be a main entree at a family gathering, or one of the dishes served at a formal dinner. To finish, hot tea with sweet pastries and fruit preserves.

Assorted meat selyanka

There is no recipe for this soup. It can be made with anything.

In the old times, selyanka (means "village girl") was a soup made with a hearty beef stock, the meat used to make the stock, and any pickled vegetables on hand. 19th century restauranteurs dresses the girl up with tomatoes, olives, capers, and fancy smoked meats, and they called it "assorted meat selyanka". Still, she didn't lose her rustic character. Anything goes. If you serve a cold meat plate at a dinner party, make a selyanka the next day. It will show the meat leftover to their best advantage, and it will cure the hangover, if any.

After you invested time and effort into making beef stock, this soup comes together in minutes. At home, I usually make a lot of beef stock once in a while in my 8-quart stock pot, then freeze whatever I don't use immediately in 1-quart ziplock bags for soups, and in ice cube trays for sauces. This way, I have my "bouillon cubes" at all times.

Serves 6

2 Tbsp olive oil
1 large onion, thinly sliced
1 cup roasted tomato sauce (substitute tomato paste)
2 quarts beef stock
3 medium kosher pickles, cut into small cubes
1 pound assorted smoked or cooked meats and sausages (smoked pork shoulder, smoked ham, dry salami, summer sausage, frankfurters, boiled beef tongue, cooked kidney, Canadian bacon, smoked chicken, smoked duck), the more the merrier. If making stock from scratch, include the boiled beef from stock. Cut into small cubes.
2 Tbsp capers, rinsed
1 cup olives, rinsed
1 lemon, cut into thin slices, to garnish
Flat parsley leaves, to garnish
6 Tbsp sour cream, to serve

Heat oil in a large pan over medium heat. Add onions, sauté until golden, 10 minutes. Add tomato sauce or tomato paste, sauté 10 minutes more.

Add stock and pickles, bring to a boil, reduce heat to low. Add meats. Heat through. Add capers and olives.

Pour soup into hot soup bowls or small crocks, add capers and olives. Garnish with lemon slices and parsley. Serve hot. Pass sour cream at the table.


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Location:San Rafael, CA

Large menu today

Today I prepared my largest menu, what I call 7x6: 7 entrees, with appropriate side dishes, 6 servings of each, and a pot of soup. I also packaged half of it in vacuum bags for my clients to freeze and take on vacation next week. Sure, I'm exhausted, but also very proud of myself. This menu made using fresh organic produce from San Rafael Farmers Market, and free range meats and poultry, mostly from our local Tara Firma farm, and all came out very well. The herbs I cut in my garden in the morning.

Here is the menu:

Potato and meatballs soup
Roasted Alaskan salmon, mushroom sauce
Mashed new potatoes with fine herbs
Mushroom, pea, and spinach frittata
Slow cooked greens with bacon
Chicken saltimbocca
Gnocchi with herbs and garlic
Duck with figs and port sauce
Rice pilaf with vegetables
Stuffed peppers
Lamb burgers
Whole-wheat buns, marinated onions, fire-roasted peppers, baby greens
Beef and vegetable stew

I was delighted to find real new potatoes at the market. Most potatoes sold as "new" in the supermarket are just regular potatoes, small size. Real new potatoes are only available in the very beginning of the season. They are picked before the potato plant matures and the green tops die. They have paper-thin skins that you can rub off with your fingers, very delicate taste and texture, and they take minutes to cook. They shine in simple preparations:
- boiled whole and served hot with sour cream and chopped parsley
- parboiled, then briefly sautéed in clarified butter, finished with sea salt of fler de sal
- boiled and coarsely mashed, with chopped parsley, tarragon, and chives

Of course, for a large service like this I selected either relatively simple dishes, or the ones that I cooked thousands of times, and can probably cook blindfolded, with my right hand tied up, in a kitchen full of two-month old kittens. This actually spears in favor of these recipes: it means that they are everyone's favorites!

I have made the last stuffed peppers of the season. The rains are coming this weekend, and the farmers have to pick whatever peppers are left on the plants, less they will be destroyed by the weather.

For stuffing, select bell peppers of uniform, relatively large size, and flat bottoms that they can stand on. Red and yellow peppers are fully ripe and have the sweetest flavor, and hold the shape best. Green and purple are good for stuffing too, just watch them close as they cook: they are underripe, soft peppers, that can overcook and lose their shape quickly.



I leave the cream out of the sauce for those who are on a dairy-free diet with very little loss of flavor.

Stuffed peppers
Makes 6

6 large bell peppers

2 Tbsp olive oil
1 carrot, cut into match sticks
1 small onion, cut into small dice
1 celery stick, thinly sliced
3/4 pound lean ground beef
2 cups cooked basmati rice
1/2 tsp dried thyme
Salt, pepper

2 Tbsp tomato paste
2 cups chicken stock, or as needed
2 Tbsp heavy cream (optional)

Cut tops off the peppers. Remove the white pith on the inside of the tops; reserve the tops. Remove the seeds and ridges from the inside of the peppers, taking care not to damage the peppers. Blanch peppers and tops in boiling water for 2-3 minutes. Remove, drain, let cool.

Heat oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add onions and carrots, sauté until light golden, 5-7 minutes. Add celery, reduce heat, cook until the vegetables are soft, stirring frequently. In a large bowl combine ground beef, cooked vegetables, and rice. Season with thyme, salt and pepper to taste. If you have quality fresh ground beef, it's ok to taste the raw stuffing. Or, take a teaspoon of stuffing, cook in a little olive oil over medium heat until the meat is done, taste, adjust the seasoning, repeat.

Fill peppers with the stuffing. Set them upright in a deep roasting pan or a braising pot. Select a pan or a pot that fits the peppers tightly, so they support each other as they cook and soften. Add tomato paste and chicken stock to come half-way up the sides of the peppers (use more or less stock if needed; if short on stock, it's ok to use water).

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.
Bring the pan or pot to a boil on the stovetop. Place in the oven. Cook until the peppers are tender and the stuffing is fully cooked, about 1 hour. Alternative method: if using a braising pot, bring to boil on the stovetop, reduce heat so that the sauce barely simmers, cover with lid or aluminum foil, cook on the stovetop until done,about 1 hour.

Carefully remove peppers to hot serving plates. Boil the sauce over medium heat to thicken it. If desired, stir in cream. Pour sauce over peppers. Serve hot, or let cool, place in covered containers, and refrigerate up to a week. Reheat in a microwave, on medium setting.




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Location:San Rafael, CA